Chef John Kleifgen relaxin at Sel de la Terre Back Bay's Bar

1. What drove you to pursue your career as a chef?
My dad used to run a chili parlor in downtown Dallas.  He’s a legendarily terrible cook, but I grew up with great memories of the times we had there.  I always had a Dr. Pepper and donkey tails, and a farkleberry sundae for dessert.

2. Where did you study to become a chef?
I graduated from CIA in ’06, but really learned to cook at L’Espalier.

3. Is there a particular part of cooking that you most enjoy?
I love the process, whether that comes from the actual cooking or in training staff.  Even cleaning.

4. The menus change very often at the restaurants. Where do you find inspiration for new recipes?
The best advice I’ve gotten is to get the best products in that we can, then try not to screw them up.  “Inspiration” is an overused term for this.  Last week at Apple Street Farm I picked some beautiful delicata squash, summer squash, eggplants, peppers, and the few tomatoes Chef had left.  If anybody gets those ingredients together and doesn’t make ratatouille then they’re over-thinking their job.

5. What cuisines have inspired the food you create as a chef?
I think that most people really cling to the food they grew up with.  I’m lucky that my Mom was a pretty eclectic cook, so I got a good amount of exposure.  She was never afraid to try out new ingredients or techniques, but my favorites were always (and still are) the Tex-Mex and southern influences that I grew up around.

6. As a chef, what challenges do you most commonly face?
It definitely different for the sous chef than for the big boss.  The biggest challenge, and most rewarding experience, is working with the staff.  We are always pushing ourselves and each other to be constantly improving.

7. When you go out to eat, what do you enjoy ordering the most?
Whopper.  Fries.  Dr Pepper.  I’m trying to cut back.

8. Can you name a few favorite restaurants in Boston you visit on your nights off?
Sunset Grill in Allston is one, but I rarely eat there.  Hungry Mother and Franklin Café are a couple that I don’t visit nearly as much as I’d like to.  Lately my favorites have been the Allston Farmer’s Market and Apple Street Farm, especially when Chef provides the lunch.

9. Do you have any favorite TV chefs or food shows?
The only one I really watch is Good Eats with Alton Brown, but that’s pretty rare.

10. Are there any Chefs you look up too or that have challenged you?
This could be a long list.  The first chef that really inspired me to make a career in the kitchen was Stephanie Maldonado in Lubbock.  She made cooking fun, and not just a job.  Chef Eisenhauer at CIA had a big impact on how I think of what our job is.  But the biggest influences were easily Frank McClelland, James Hackney, and Alex Crabb.  Not only that they’re so fanatical about perfection, but that they are that way every day.  Just being around them - their attitude is infectious.

11. Is there a favorite cookbook in your collection that you refer to often?
On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee.

12. If you had one piece of advice to give to cooking novices, what would it be?
That this job isn’t for everyone.  The people who make it in the kitchen are the ones that really love it, but if you just want to make some money there are better options.  Go to school.  Get a real job and make some money.  If you’re still not happy with that, try crime.  If that doesn’t work out, you might have a place in the kitchen.

The Charcuterie Bar at our downstairs bar!

One thing you might quickly notice at Sel de la Terre is how much we love charcuterie.  The chefs here go wild for pork, creating endless sausages, pates, and other tasty meats from their most beloved animal - the pig.

Expanding upon this enthusiasm in the kitchen, Sel de la Terre Back Bay now features a house-made Charcuterie Bar. We invite you, our fellow pork devotees, to take part in a weekly pork feast created by our chefs!

Beginning  September 15th, Every Tuesday and Wednesday night between the hours of 10pm to midnight, step inside our downstairs bar area and find yourself consumed by a vast assortment of fancy meats with traditional accompaniments – all for just $10 per person!

"The Whole Beast", a highly acclaimed foodie book

mustard, cornichons, olives, and diced red onions

"Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing" displayed on the Charcuterie Bar

After we’ve closed up shop, Chef Louis will prepare a weekly Farmer’s Dinner utilizing fresh ingredients from the day’s market. Savor a 3-course pre-fixe dinner for $35 per person every Thursday night beginning September 3 (courses can be ordered a la carte).

Sneak Preview: On September 3, the dessert course will feature pure New Hampshire maple sugar cotton candy, made from a huge cotton candy machine that will be spinning maple cotton candy at Sel de la Terre all evening!

The Prudential Farmer’s Market continues all the way through October.  Keep an eye out for pumpkins, winter squash, potatoes, and root vegetables in the months to come!

The local stone fruits in the salad featuring apricots, peaches, plums, nectarines, and pickled cherries were purchased today from the Copley Farmer’s Market.  The honey drizzled on the salad comes from Gilson’s Herb Lyceum, they also have a stand at the Prudential Farmer’s Market on Thursdays from 11am-6pm.

The perfect summertime soup, cold potato leek soup garnished with white truffle oil and fresh cut chives.

The dish combines Chatham bluefish with ropecaught mussels from Maine.  Native corn succotash accompanies the seafood and everything is beautifully served in a tomato-saffron broth.  Chef Louis commented on how he chooses seafood for the dishes based on the freshest catches in August, “This is the perfect time of year to showcase bluefish, it is line caught locally from Cape Cod and delivered fresh daily.”

Come by any of our three restaurants and try dishes from our diverse Restaurant Month Menus!

Chef Ben with his adorable daughter

It is our pleasure to welcome Ben Knack as he takes the helm as Chef de Cuisine at Sel de la Terre Long Wharf as of August 3rd.  Knack is familiar with the New France family from his stint working alongside Chef/Owner Frank McClelland in the L’Espalier kitchen earlier in his career.  He now returns to us with a variety of new experiences under his belt, including Executive Chef at Beacon Hill Bistro and his most recent position as manager and instructor at the esteemed New England Culinary Institute where he taught customer service and kitchen management skills.

“We place a strong commitment on training and promoting from within so we know Ben will hit the ground running and make immediate culinary and mentoring contributions,” said Sel de la Terre’s Executive Chef/Co-owner Geoff Gardner. “Ben returns to us in time for Restaurant Week, so he’ll have a busy start.”

Ben has been working in the restaurant industry since the young age of 15, and has had experience across several dimensions of the industry from savory to pastry throughout his thriving career.  Ben has held positions at many establishments beginning at Fusion Grille in Long Island, New York; followed by engagements at Christopher’s in Phoenix, Arizona; Hyatt Regency Beaver Creek, Colorado and the Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort and Spa, Hawaii.

We are excited to let Ben stretch his culinary legs in the kitchen of Sel de la Terre as he continues to develop his impeccable tastes and skills.  We can’t wait to see how he interprets our longstanding tradition of Provencal inspired cuisine and fresh New England ingredients.

At Sel de la Terre, we decided that two weeks was not long enough and will offer our prix fixe offerings throughout the whole month of August!  From August 1-August 31 come dine at any Sel de la Terre location and enjoy a 3 course lunch for $20.09 or a 3 course dinner for $33.09!

Each location has a different menu, so try one or try them all!

Sel de la Terre Back Bay

 774 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02199
617-266-8800
www.seldelaterre.com

FIRST COURSE

Native corn soup with crispy pancetta and lavender
Or
Field greens with blueberries, raspberries and fennel; local honey
Or
Vichyssoise

MAIN COURSE

 Provencal braised beef with spring dug parsnip purée, local greens and radishes
or
Skillet roasted bluefish with tomato-saffron broth and mussels or Risotto of lemon, pine nuts, basil and pecorino

DESSERT

 Buttermilk panna cotta, strawberries and coconut tuille
Or
Chocolate decadence with toasted marshmallow and graham cracker ice cream

CHEESE COURSE (ADD $12)

SEL DE LA TERRE LONG WHARF

255 State Street
Boston, MA 02109
617-720-1300
www.seldelaterre.com

FIRST COURSE

Country pork pâté with peach compote
or
Vichyssoise

MAIN COURSE

 Crisp confit duck leg with mushroom and tomato risotto
or
Grilled trout with sautéed potato and onion hash and charred lemon

DESSERT

Chocolate pot de crème with hazelnut biscotti
or
Stone fruit cobbler with vanilla ice cream

CHEESE COURSE (ADD $12)

Sel De la Terre Natick Collection

1245 Worcester Street (facing Speen Street, between Neiman Marcus & Nordstrom)
Natick, MA 01760
508-650-1800
www.seldelaterre.com

FIRST COURSE

Apple Street Farm mixed greens salad with fresh strawberries and toasted almonds; Champagne vanilla vinaigrette
 Or
Native corn soup with crispy pancetta and lavender
Or
Vichyssoise

MAIN COURSE

Provencal braised beef with spring dug parsnip purée, local greens and radishes
Or
Risotto of lemon, pine nuts, basil and pecorino

DESSERT

Warm chocolate fondant cake with orange marmalade and Kahlua ice cream
Or
Selection of sorbets with seasonal fruit

CHEESE COURSE (ADD $12)

*Menu is subject to change.
*Menu items are cooked to order or may contain undercooked meat or fish, which may increase your risk of food-borne illness.

After a brief introduction and welcome from Chef Louis, our guest chefs plated their dishes.  Each prepared two courses for the meal that were rated by the crowd based on creativity, presentation, and flavor, which were all totaled to determine each competitor’s final score and the winner of the smack down.  We were most excited to see the comradery of the two chefs and their assistants who, along with the Sel kitchen team, helped each other plate dishes flawlessly every round.

We have had some close competitions in past Sous Chef Smackdowns, but the parity in score this time around was shocking.  Both John and Cassie put out delicious and creative dishes, but Cassie pulled ahead with her corn and saffron chowder in the third round and won the battle by a mere 15 points!

We can’t wait to continue to invite chefs from the many esteemed restaurants in Boston into our kitchen to showcase their skills throughout the year as we continue this ongoing event.  Join us at one of our next Sous Chef Smackdowns, and stay tuned for upcoming dates and competitors!

View the Chefs Inside the Kitchen:

Cassie Piuma prepares her chorizo croquettes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEIh0SqfUhI
The chefs assemble the corn chowder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P64QBZw4_yo

The Chefs

A Massachusetts native, Cassie Piuma attended Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI graduating with honors and a bachelor’s degree in Culinary Arts. She finished her last semester abroad traveling thru Asia, ending at the Sun-rise culinary school in Singapore.
While attaining her Culinary degree, Cassie worked under George Germon and Johanne Killeen at the highly acclaimed Al Forno restaurant in Providence, RI for four years before moving back to Boston where she worked in several notable kitchens including Sel de la Terre, Gourmet Caterer’s and The Butcher Shop.
She most recently has spent the last six and a half years climbing the ranks to her current position as Chef de Cuisine and working with James Beard Award-winning chef Ana Sortun at Oleana in Cambridge.

John Paul daSilva was born in Gloucester, MA on March 22 1984.  At the young age of thirteen, he began working alongside his mother and father at several different family style restaurants on Cape Ann.
John graduated from Gloucester High School in 2002 and went on to receive his Associates Degree in Culinary Arts from New England Culinary Institute in 2004. Soon after, he began working on Nantucket Island at the Boarding House where he was quickly promoted to sous chef.  John would spend the next four years at the Boarding House honing his culinary skills under the tutelage of Chef Erin Zircher.  He spent his winters working at local favorites, Rialto and the Butcher Shop, which eventually led him to No. 9 Park in January 2008. ChefJohn daSilva climbed the ranks from line cook to rounds cook, and eventually sous chef in the winter of 2008.

Sous Chef Smackdown Menu

First Course Cooked by Cassie Piuma of Oleana

Morrocan spiced tuna & tomato tartare, harissa creme fraiche,
 brik; ginger granite

Second Course Cooked by John daSilva of No. 9

Third Course Cooked By Cassie Piuma

Corn and saffron chowder, Maine crab, chorizo croquettes, padron peppers

Fourth Course Cooked by John daSilva

]]> http://seldelaterre.wordpress.com/2009/07/29/sous-chef-smackdown-cassie-kyriakides-vs-john-desilva/feed/ 2 Annie G cassie pouring John deSilva cooking Tuna tartare DSC04087 DSC04107 4th course scallops http://seldelaterre.wordpress.com/2009/07/27/from-boylstson-street-to-apple-street-farms/ http://seldelaterre.wordpress.com/2009/07/27/from-boylstson-street-to-apple-street-farms/#comments Mon, 27 Jul 2009 18:14:02 +0000 Annie http://seldelaterre.wordpress.com/?p=104 ]]>

Frank McClelland’s new farm in Essex County has contributed a generous amount of food this summer to both Sel de la Terre and L’Espalier.  The fresh produce supplies customers with locally grown vegetables every Thursday at the Prudential Farmers Market while also being used in the kitchen.  However Frank’s Farm not only has seasonal fruits and vegetables but also lots of animals.  At any time wild turkeys, quails, pigs, chickens, and horses can be spotted meandering about the farm…

A group of Chefs from the sister restaurants, Sel de la Terre and L’Espalier  left their city dwellings and headed up to the Northshore in Massachusetts.  The chefs had a chance to experience life like it was in the old days on the farm and were surrounded by abundant crops and animals at every turn.

They spent the day with Chef Frank and spent most of their time in the barn.  This turned out to be an adventure because together they took chickens from the coop and prepared them for use in the kitchen.  Chef Louis took a chicken back to Sel de la Terre from the farm and says it was the first time he ever ate something that he killed.  Below are pictures that give you a look at the Farm and the Chefs with the chickens!

Here in the fields Chef Frank spends some time harvesting his crops.

Ashley, Chef at L'Espalier plucks the feathers off a chicken.

This is a fully plucked chicken, feather and stud free, ready to be dressed and served.

ff

Chef Frank in the front, the novices in the back watch attentively...

Meet Porchetta...

If you haven’t noticed yet, people here go crazy for Pig.  We’ve taken some time to get inside the mind of  Porchetta, so settle in, get comfortable, and enjoy the interview!

Where are you from?

I was born in Aricca, Italy.  However, I was raised in Lynnfield, MA…both towns are considered extensions of Rome’s southeastern suburbs

What’s the best part about you?

Some people say the best part of me is my skin.  Sure, it’s crispy and golden and delicious…but when you look past the my gorgeous exterior you’ll find I have a tender loin and a zesty sausage side to me.

Porchetta's crispy and delicious skin!

Why would people be interested in you?

I have all sorts of interests that I think people would gravitate toward.  I enjoys scooter riding, hanging out with salad and spending time with potato chips.  I’m active on the restaurant scene…especially here in Boston.  I have connections in NYC but I’m huge in Europe.

Have you been seen with any celebrities in Boston?

I’ve been around my share of celebrity, especially at the Mandarin.  The Jonas Brothers, Porky Pig, the crew from the movie Babe…and I was engaged to Brittney Spears.

Is it true that you have a Facebook page, Why did this happen?

Facebook is a company I consulted on early in my career. The creators wanted me to stay on as the spokesmodel but I couldn’t ingore my culinary roots.  I’m happy with my decision to stay in restaurants and I’m satisfied with my career path.

Become Friends with Porchetta: Porchetta DiBiccari (http://www.facebook.com/s.php?ref=search&init=quick&q=Porchetta#/porchetta.dibiccari?v=info&viewas=13004049&ref=ts)

We also did a little background check on you and realized that you’re all over the internet and even have a Twitter following.  Can you tell me a little bit more about this?

Twitter is a way to allow my fans to follow me in real time.  I was reluctant at first, I’m a bit old school.  I wasn’t even introduced to the USA until the early 20th Century.  But Porchetta is also progressive and it’s important to change with the times.

Follow Porchetta: http://twitter.com/Porchetta_SDLT

What are you favorite hot spots in Boston?

I like to catch a show at the House of Blues, or meet up with friends at Toro for some ham and charcuterie plates.

How do you feel about the Chefs at Sel de la Terre?

They are a creative bunch.  Intense at times but they know their way around the pig.

When you spend time in the restaurant who is your favorite person to work with?  Why?

I like to work with Sully.  His rough exterior but soft interior reminds me of myself in a lot of ways.

How do they treat you?

Everyone I work with treats me like a piece of meat.  I’m better looking than they are so I think there are some jealousy issues they have difficulty dealing with.

If a nutritionist came to your house would you be concerned?

I’m not healthy.

What types of dishes are you used for?

I’m best served in a sandwich but I go great with eggs and like to make cameos on brunch menus.

Porchetta Sandwich!

What do you like to be served with? Any drinks go well?

Rose is a good match, but bacon infused bourbon is a win-win.  I can be followed with a shot of Fernet Branca.

How long do they keep you around the restaurant?

I’m a staple now…I’m here everyday and will be until they kick me out.

Kerry making tarts

So let’s begin the interview…

What drove you to pursue your career as a Chef?

My parents owned a restaurant when I was younger, and I grew up with them cooking.  I Worked Savory before I moved to pastry. Switched to pastry for the change and the challenge.  It’s also creative and science is involved

What aspect of being a baker do you enjoy most?

The Creativity, having the ability to try new things and create your own.

Does your pastry menu change often?

Usually every 3-4 months it changes.
We experiment with new menu options by putting it as a prix fixe first.  I also change the menu to fit the fruit in season.

What ingredients are seasonal during the month of July?

Stone fruits, blueberries, raspberries, lavendar, lemon verbena.  I use the fruits on fruit tarts, ice creams with fresh fruit and sorbets as well.

Any ideas for August?

I’ll focus on blueberries and figs will be around

What influence does French cuisine have on your ideas for pastries?

All the techniques I use go back to the classic French technique for the Chocolate-truffles, also for crème brulee and custards and many other desserts…

Where do you find inspiration for your recipes?

From different restaurants, also talking to chefs and friends, looking at new menus and  reading books. (Some favorite books of Kerry’s at the moment are The French Laundry Cookbook and anything from Julia Childs.

Buttermilk Biscuits with Sweet Cream Parfait and Strawberries

375 F, 10-12 minutes. Makes 6-8 biscuits

Buttermilk Biscuits
1 ½ c. all purpose flour
½ c. cake flour
3 ½ tsp baking powder
pinch of salt
4 tbsp. Sugar
6 tbsp. butter
¾ c heavy cream
2 eggs hard cooked egg yolks

1.    Mix together the all purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, and salt. Add and mix 3 tbsp sugar. Knead 6 tbsp butter into dry ingredients.
2.    Hard-boil 2 eggs, crumble the hard egg yolk into the butter and flour mixture.
3.    Add heavy cream and mix with hands until it forms dough.
4.    Roll the dough out half inch thick and cut the dough into the size biscuit you’d like.
5.    Melt 2 tbsp of butter and brush on to the top of the biscuits; sprinkle the remaining sugar onto the top of biscuits and bake for 10-12 minutes.

Sweet Cream Parfait
(Yields 8 cups)
1 ¼ c. sugar
6 egg yolks
½ c.  heavy cream
2 tbsp brandy
1 c. sour cream
3 c. heavy cream

1. On medium speed, ribbon yolks and sugar.  Meanwhile bring cream to a boil.
2. Lower speed of the mixer and slowly pour ½ c. cream onto yolk and sugar mixture. Add brandy. Scrape the bowl and return to medium/high speed until cool.
3. In separate bowl whip together sour cream and remaining 3c. heavy cream until it becomes stiff.
4. Fold cream into yolk mixture in two batches.

Serve over biscuits with fresh fruit and enjoy!